Saturday, February 11, 2006

Thaipusam at Batu Caves

Thaipusam is a Hindu festival that is celebrated on the tenth month in the Hindu calendar. It's a celebration for the son of Shiva (Lord Subramaniam) and the union of the Pusan and the Brihaspati stars.

It's just my lucky day to be in KL when the Thaipusam festival happens this time of year. From what I've gathered, the street procession starts around midnight at the Sri Maha Mariamman Temple in Chinatown, where the statue of Lord Subramaniam and his consorts, Valli and Theivanai are placed on a chariot and drawn by bullocks. The colorful procession terminates 13 kilometers away at the Batu Caves. Yes, that Batu Caves with 272 steps leading up to the massive limestone caves.

KL at midnight is not the safest place for a tourist to be about, but I figured with so many people in the procession, I should be safe. But alas, it is not to be. Our network topology reconfiguration from midnight Wednesday going to Thursday didn't turn out well. We had to roll back all our changes, and make another attempt that same night. It was better the second time around, but by the time we finished the work, packed up, and got back to the hotel, it's 6am. After a very early breakfast and some much-needed sleep, it was already 2pm when I and my colleague left for Batu Caves.

The last time I went to Batu Caves was by the local city bus. Not recommended if you can help it. This time because of the festival, there are some better transport options. We took the KTM train to Sentul, and from there, transferred to another train that took us all the way to Batu Caves. The trains were packed with Indians. I've never seen so many Indians in one place at one time. Well, that's until we actually got to Batu Caves. It became little India. The place is so packed I had trouble breathing. There's food stalls, handicrafts stalls, shops selling Indian CDs and VCDs, etc. It's already late afternoon, but there's still a steady stream of entranced devotees carrying kavadis into the Batu Caves. Other worshippers hook limes, oranges or coconuts onto their bodies. That must hurt, especially when you have to carry them up 272 steps into the caves. Women carry jugs full of milk. Once inside the caves, the Swami removes the hooks, spears, the kavadi, etc. The milk is poured out, and the devotee's vow is fulfilled, his sins cleansed.

1 comment:

FiShY~FiSh said...

hi albert,
my name is kamini and i'm a reporter with malaysian english daily. Noitced your blog when i was surfing for some information on thaipusam.
Hey i need some comments from you as an australian on the event. this is for an article for next week. Would like to find out if you have any more australian friends who are aware of the festivals. how do you find it? etc. please contact me through my email at kamini@nst.com.my or kamsie@gmail.com. please reply asap since i'm on a tight deadline